#apertus IRC Channel Logs

I was googling about integrating spheres since I found myself in need of one, to attempt external calibration of a cinema camera that lost its calibration and can't be repaired, but still functions otherwise

did that get anywhere in the end?

Spirit532: yes, the sphere is finished

Hi Folks..

Be 10bit 4:2:2 processing in a prosumer cam .. would be nice to use the beta in 2019 instead ;D

Spirit532: i think the lens mount tube will quite interfere with your intent

maybe rather shot a defocused well lit white wall - or even better, get a reference camera to first calibrate the wall / light source, and from same position profile the target device

the sensor is just *raw*

I am also having the issue you described

the issue I'm really having is that there's a really ugly magenta transition on the image set at around 2/3rds the absolute brightness

I can correct nonuniformity pretty easily by just averaging a hundred dark images and subtracting, FPN goes away at the same time

but it's a very large set and there may be some duplicates in terms of brightness

also, trying to do it through a lens gives even more massive light vingetting, which is why I tried it with a highly uniform flat panel stuck against the bayonet, but it wasn't enough

the hardware ID box in the menu is just "Val." and it doesn't know its own serial number or calibration

only black reference

(since the camera doesn't know the rest of its parameters)

completely, yes

I'm not going to take it apart enough to try to find the eeprom that probably holds the settings

origami construction

I thought only the pocket cam is made that way, due size... but at ursa? does not make much sense to have it on single pcb :/

there's a few daughterboards, one for the sensor, one for the CFast slot, and I believe one for power/XLR audio

they're super high layer count too, from what I can understand

hey will someone from apertus be at the 35c3 this year?

we will be setting up a stage and i was wondering if we could have an apertus talk there

Spirit532: so what is the plan on getting it working again?

it shoots raw or prores 4444 hq, that's plenty of data

they're absolutely awful because of the magenta transition

the FPN and nonuniformity can be fixed in one go though

well I suppose they're the same thing, more or less

the other way around

I have a full gradient step from almost dark to almost saturated

got a single frame to look at (preferably at an image hosting service)?

https://i.spirit.re/Etu1F.dng

you can see the magenta at around the 3/4 of the way up

this is without FPN removal or dead pixel correction by the way

it is the back of a flashlight, right?

and yeah

the FPN just makes it a lot more ugly

this is raw from the camera

(and with raw I autally mean cookes which they claim to be raw :)

nope, this is sensor raw

https://i.spirit.re/c0dtD.dng

it just spits out the raw images into the codec

yeah, you might be right and this is the first of its kind which really provides raw sensor data :)

but the pink tint might actually be the result of some misconfigured correction mechanism

I don't know, I haven't looked at the camera's firmware

which might be a good idea, but it doesn't come as a separate file, it's packed deep into the updater sw and encrypted

I think there's really only 2

the images *are* color accurate after all

those are the obvious ones and also the ones quite easy to detect

I'd be completely fine with the image it produced if it wasn't for the nonuniformity and magenta

but if it's zero

and let's assume it's zero, since the camera thinks its version is "Ver." instead of a hex value

(20:04:05) parasew[m]: Not to my knowledge. I won't certainly.

there's a point until the image is perfect color-wise

but I think it is rather unlikely that the eeprom has lost its content over night

can you describe what led to the current condition?

I have no idea, I bought the camera this way hoping it'd be an easy fix

I see, well it might still be an easy fix

but they followed up with "we don't do component level repair" so that explains why

they did offer to replace the entire left side of the camera with the slightly damaged LCD cable for only $150

they actually can

they said "we tried to pass this through our image optimization process, but since there's no hardware IDs anywhere, the software doesn't know anything about the camera and can't proceed"

it's a single commented line to skip ID checks

anyway, what I would check first is if all the eeprom pins have a proper connection

and I'm not really keen on ripping the camera apart again

yeah it might be something like that

*there

they said they flashed it with the factory bootloader before undoing it back to production firmware

and it didn't work, did it?

MOSI, if it's SPI?

the camera has an absolutely horrid origami construction

and without the proper commands (because some pin is shorted or open), nothing will be erased or changed or overwritten

(not my camera btw, just a pic online)

nope, that's the best I found

but not one of the switchmode PSUs

and probably not one of the QFNs with a bunch of caps, those are probably switched cap psus or charge pumps to go back up

ram

but there may be flash too

like 6 chips of DDR memory

the stuff on the back is just decoupling

that... might be

package is floating above the board

yeah, eMMC comes in this kind of package for example

there's obviously two big power supplies

and actually you might get away with simply reheating it with a hot air gun

because your hot air gun skills are that bad?

I mean overheating is an issue yes

that flash next to the small xilinx/atmel device is just fpga firmware and that works

not really, you heat up the PCB to something aroun 100-120°C from the bootom

I have no preheater or oven

250-350C is vague

it's going to be rohs

250 for leaded solder, 350 for unleaded

you can get those for about 10 USD or so

it's an awful design

this is how it looks in the camera

could be better too

but that's what you get in the proprietary arena

what's worse is that the eeprom might be on the sensor board

yeah