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#apertus IRC Channel Logs

2017/01/03

Timezone: UTC


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Bertl
morning folks!
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toxitobi
morning Bertl
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Bertl
off for now ... bbl
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se6astian
hello!
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20:38
skinkie
How difficult is it typically to solder an smd-micro-usb connector
20:38
skinkie
would this only work with hot air?
20:44
Bertl_oO
no, it is rather simple if you know how to do it
20:44
skinkie
would you first mount the two edges
20:44
skinkie
and then the i/o?
20:44
Bertl_oO
really depends on the part, do you have a link?
20:44
skinkie
https://opencircuit.nl/Product/10811/Female-micro-usb-connector
20:45
skinkie
just a regular thing
20:45
skinkie
trying to repair a kobo reader
20:45
Bertl_oO
there is no such thing as a 'regular' smd-micro-usb :)
20:45
skinkie
I'll battle that when I end up there ;)
20:46
skinkie
but typically, i guess the typical tinning the connector
20:46
Bertl_oO
I don't see who is manufacturing that one, but it seems to have two pins which go into the board
20:46
Bertl_oO
so it will be held in place there already when you place it
20:47
Bertl_oO
you can then easily solder the five USB pins
20:47
Bertl_oO
and fix the connector via those two holes in the board
20:47
skinkie
and would you tin the pins first?
20:47
skinkie
or only flow the solder from the board
20:48
Bertl_oO
tinning would complicate things, because the connector would not be even on the PCB
20:48
Bertl_oO
what you do is put a lot of flux on the pins and pads
20:48
Bertl_oO
and then add plenty of solder till all pins are connected (doesn't matter if you bridge them or not)
20:49
Bertl_oO
once that is done, remove the excess solder via some desoldering braid (careful not to remove too much)
20:49
Bertl_oO
again flux helps a lot there
20:50
skinkie
I'll see if I am able to do it :)
20:53
Bertl_oO
all the image I found online for 'a' kobo reader seem to show very different connectors
20:53
Bertl_oO
can you take a picture of the open device where you want to replace the USB connector?
20:59
skinkie
@Bertl_oO http://stefan.konink.de/kobo.jpg
21:03
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21:04
Bertl_oO
oh-my-god, what happened to that one?
21:04
skinkie
when I say a girl tried to fix her kobo
21:05
skinkie
and her bf asked me, can you fix it...
21:05
Bertl_oO
then that would sound like sexism ...
21:05
skinkie
the amount of glue, solder... and probably tears were present :p
21:06
skinkie
actually, when a girl actually attempts to fix this kind of things on her own
21:06
Bertl_oO
okay, you know how to solder (i.e. the basics?)
21:06
skinkie
that already gets some compliments from me, because at least that is an attempt
21:06
skinkie
yes, i know how to solder ;)
21:07
skinkie
i got basic flux, but not the liquid one
21:07
Bertl_oO
good, can you carefully remove the solder from the pads on the PCB?
21:07
Bertl_oO
with flux (tacky one is fine, I use it for almost everything)
21:07
Bertl_oO
and some desoldering wick/braid
21:08
Bertl_oO
keep the temperarute as low as possible
21:08
Bertl_oO
and make a photo of the pads once they are cleaned up
21:08
Bertl_oO
(you need to do that anyways)
21:09
skinkie
the point is, that old connector is really one big mess
21:09
skinkie
that is the reason i ordered some other ones
21:09
skinkie
or would you suggest to recover that?
21:09
Bertl_oO
yes, forget about the old one, but you have to find a new one which matches the land pattern
21:09
Bertl_oO
and at the first glance, the one you pasted does not match :/
21:15
Bertl_oO
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8050/8442835400_f8f9e1c18d_b.jpg this is how the connector probably looked like before
21:16
Bertl_oO
it is a kobo glo, no?
21:17
skinkie
i wouldn't be surprised if it is a glo
21:18
skinkie
but the board looks different
21:18
Bertl_oO
the board is from the mini
21:18
Bertl_oO
the best picture I found from the glo PCB is blurred like hell
21:18
Bertl_oO
http://erkinson.altervista.org/de/kobo-glo-smontaggio-aumento-memoria/
21:19
Bertl_oO
roughly in the middle of the page
21:19
skinkie
http://stefan.konink.de/kobo-con.jpg
21:20
Bertl_oO
okay, as I suspected
21:21
Bertl_oO
the one you linked won't work with that
21:21
Bertl_oO
what's on the other side of that board (where the connector is?
21:23
Bertl_oO
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/Micro-USB.pdf
21:23
Bertl_oO
that one might work as a replacement
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arpu
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21:27
skinkie
i get those replace usb things in two days
21:27
skinkie
see if that fits or not
21:27
skinkie
then search for other
21:27
Bertl_oO
at least in the picture, they have pins going down into the PCB
21:27
skinkie
doesn't work... lets see if i can make this glo the first qi-wireless charging one
21:28
skinkie
http://stefan.konink.de/kobo-backside.jpg
21:29
Bertl_oO
excellent
21:30
Bertl_oO
as the other side doesn't have any problematic components on the edge of the PCB, I would suggest heating the PCB from the bottom (e.g. with a ceramic heating element or similar) to about 100-150 deg celsius
21:30
Bertl_oO
this will simplify rework a lot and keep the pads on the PCB :)
21:32
skinkie
will that really work?
21:33
skinkie
will that melt solder on the other side?
21:33
Bertl_oO
yes, it will work, it is all about the temperature difference, and no, it will be below the melting point for the solder
21:34
Bertl_oO
the trick is to reduce the difference you have to overcome with the soldering iron
21:34
Bertl_oO
if the PCB is at room temperature, you need to get the pads quite hot to reach the 200-220 deg celsius for the solder
21:35
Bertl_oO
and the large thermal pads (those you did not get cleaned easily)
21:35
Bertl_oO
will draw away heat very fast
21:36
Bertl_oO
heating the PCB up to 130 deg celsius already gets you half the way and thus allows you to use lower temperatures for soldering without harming the PCB
21:37
skinkie
I see your point
21:37
Bertl_oO
that's why rework stations have bootom heaters :)
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22:15
se6astian
good night!
22:15
se6astian
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