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#apertus IRC Channel Logs

2017/01/03

Timezone: UTC


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Bertl
morning folks!
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toxitobi
morning Bertl
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Bertl
off for now ... bbl
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se6astian
hello!
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21:38
skinkie
How difficult is it typically to solder an smd-micro-usb connector
21:38
skinkie
would this only work with hot air?
21:44
Bertl_oO
no, it is rather simple if you know how to do it
21:44
skinkie
would you first mount the two edges
21:44
skinkie
and then the i/o?
21:44
Bertl_oO
really depends on the part, do you have a link?
21:44
skinkie
https://opencircuit.nl/Product/10811/Female-micro-usb-connector
21:45
skinkie
just a regular thing
21:45
skinkie
trying to repair a kobo reader
21:45
Bertl_oO
there is no such thing as a 'regular' smd-micro-usb :)
21:45
skinkie
I'll battle that when I end up there ;)
21:46
skinkie
but typically, i guess the typical tinning the connector
21:46
Bertl_oO
I don't see who is manufacturing that one, but it seems to have two pins which go into the board
21:46
Bertl_oO
so it will be held in place there already when you place it
21:47
Bertl_oO
you can then easily solder the five USB pins
21:47
Bertl_oO
and fix the connector via those two holes in the board
21:47
skinkie
and would you tin the pins first?
21:47
skinkie
or only flow the solder from the board
21:48
Bertl_oO
tinning would complicate things, because the connector would not be even on the PCB
21:48
Bertl_oO
what you do is put a lot of flux on the pins and pads
21:48
Bertl_oO
and then add plenty of solder till all pins are connected (doesn't matter if you bridge them or not)
21:49
Bertl_oO
once that is done, remove the excess solder via some desoldering braid (careful not to remove too much)
21:49
Bertl_oO
again flux helps a lot there
21:50
skinkie
I'll see if I am able to do it :)
21:53
Bertl_oO
all the image I found online for 'a' kobo reader seem to show very different connectors
21:53
Bertl_oO
can you take a picture of the open device where you want to replace the USB connector?
21:59
skinkie
@Bertl_oO http://stefan.konink.de/kobo.jpg
22:03
Spirit532
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22:04
Bertl_oO
oh-my-god, what happened to that one?
22:04
skinkie
when I say a girl tried to fix her kobo
22:05
skinkie
and her bf asked me, can you fix it...
22:05
Bertl_oO
then that would sound like sexism ...
22:05
skinkie
the amount of glue, solder... and probably tears were present :p
22:06
skinkie
actually, when a girl actually attempts to fix this kind of things on her own
22:06
Bertl_oO
okay, you know how to solder (i.e. the basics?)
22:06
skinkie
that already gets some compliments from me, because at least that is an attempt
22:06
skinkie
yes, i know how to solder ;)
22:07
skinkie
i got basic flux, but not the liquid one
22:07
Bertl_oO
good, can you carefully remove the solder from the pads on the PCB?
22:07
Bertl_oO
with flux (tacky one is fine, I use it for almost everything)
22:07
Bertl_oO
and some desoldering wick/braid
22:08
Bertl_oO
keep the temperarute as low as possible
22:08
Bertl_oO
and make a photo of the pads once they are cleaned up
22:08
Bertl_oO
(you need to do that anyways)
22:09
skinkie
the point is, that old connector is really one big mess
22:09
skinkie
that is the reason i ordered some other ones
22:09
skinkie
or would you suggest to recover that?
22:09
Bertl_oO
yes, forget about the old one, but you have to find a new one which matches the land pattern
22:09
Bertl_oO
and at the first glance, the one you pasted does not match :/
22:15
Bertl_oO
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8050/8442835400_f8f9e1c18d_b.jpg this is how the connector probably looked like before
22:16
Bertl_oO
it is a kobo glo, no?
22:17
skinkie
i wouldn't be surprised if it is a glo
22:18
skinkie
but the board looks different
22:18
Bertl_oO
the board is from the mini
22:18
Bertl_oO
the best picture I found from the glo PCB is blurred like hell
22:18
Bertl_oO
http://erkinson.altervista.org/de/kobo-glo-smontaggio-aumento-memoria/
22:19
Bertl_oO
roughly in the middle of the page
22:19
skinkie
http://stefan.konink.de/kobo-con.jpg
22:20
Bertl_oO
okay, as I suspected
22:21
Bertl_oO
the one you linked won't work with that
22:21
Bertl_oO
what's on the other side of that board (where the connector is?
22:23
Bertl_oO
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/Micro-USB.pdf
22:23
Bertl_oO
that one might work as a replacement
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arpu
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22:27
skinkie
i get those replace usb things in two days
22:27
skinkie
see if that fits or not
22:27
skinkie
then search for other
22:27
Bertl_oO
at least in the picture, they have pins going down into the PCB
22:27
skinkie
doesn't work... lets see if i can make this glo the first qi-wireless charging one
22:28
skinkie
http://stefan.konink.de/kobo-backside.jpg
22:29
Bertl_oO
excellent
22:30
Bertl_oO
as the other side doesn't have any problematic components on the edge of the PCB, I would suggest heating the PCB from the bottom (e.g. with a ceramic heating element or similar) to about 100-150 deg celsius
22:30
Bertl_oO
this will simplify rework a lot and keep the pads on the PCB :)
22:32
skinkie
will that really work?
22:33
skinkie
will that melt solder on the other side?
22:33
Bertl_oO
yes, it will work, it is all about the temperature difference, and no, it will be below the melting point for the solder
22:34
Bertl_oO
the trick is to reduce the difference you have to overcome with the soldering iron
22:34
Bertl_oO
if the PCB is at room temperature, you need to get the pads quite hot to reach the 200-220 deg celsius for the solder
22:35
Bertl_oO
and the large thermal pads (those you did not get cleaned easily)
22:35
Bertl_oO
will draw away heat very fast
22:36
Bertl_oO
heating the PCB up to 130 deg celsius already gets you half the way and thus allows you to use lower temperatures for soldering without harming the PCB
22:37
skinkie
I see your point
22:37
Bertl_oO
that's why rework stations have bootom heaters :)
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se6astian
good night!
23:15
se6astian
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slikdigit_
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