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|  | 09:10 | Bertl |     morning folks!
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|  | 21:38 | skinkie |     How difficult is it typically to solder an smd-micro-usb connector
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|  | 21:38 | skinkie |     would this only work with hot air?
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|  | 21:44 | Bertl_oO |     no, it is rather simple if you know how to do it
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|  | 21:44 | skinkie |     would you first mount the two edges
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|  | 21:44 | skinkie |     and then the i/o?
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|  | 21:44 | Bertl_oO |     really depends on the part, do you have a link?
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|  | 21:44 | skinkie |     https://opencircuit.nl/Product/10811/Female-micro-usb-connector
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|  | 21:45 | skinkie |     just a regular thing
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|  | 21:45 | skinkie |     trying to repair a kobo reader
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|  | 21:45 | Bertl_oO |     there is no such thing as a 'regular' smd-micro-usb :)
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|  | 21:45 | skinkie |     I'll battle that when I end up there ;)
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|  | 21:46 | skinkie |     but typically, i guess the typical tinning the connector
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|  | 21:46 | Bertl_oO |     I don't see who is manufacturing that one, but it seems to have two pins which go into the board
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|  | 21:46 | Bertl_oO |     so it will be held in place there already when you place it
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|  | 21:47 | Bertl_oO |     you can then easily solder the five USB pins
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|  | 21:47 | Bertl_oO |     and fix the connector via those two holes in the board
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|  | 21:47 | skinkie |     and would you tin the pins first?
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|  | 21:47 | skinkie |     or only flow the solder from the board
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|  | 21:48 | Bertl_oO |     tinning would complicate things, because the connector would not be even on the PCB
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|  | 21:48 | Bertl_oO |     what you do is put a lot of flux on the pins and pads
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|  | 21:48 | Bertl_oO |     and then add plenty of solder till all pins are connected (doesn't matter if you bridge them or not)
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|  | 21:49 | Bertl_oO |     once that is done, remove the excess solder via some desoldering braid (careful not to remove too much)
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|  | 21:49 | Bertl_oO |     again flux helps a lot there
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|  | 21:50 | skinkie |     I'll see if I am able to do it :)
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|  | 21:53 | Bertl_oO |     all the image I found online for 'a' kobo reader seem to show very different connectors
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|  | 21:53 | Bertl_oO |     can you take a picture of the open device where you want to replace the USB connector?
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|  | 21:59 | skinkie |     @Bertl_oO http://stefan.konink.de/kobo.jpg
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|  | 22:03 | Spirit532 |  joined the channel | 
|  | 22:04 | Bertl_oO |     oh-my-god, what happened to that one?
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|  | 22:04 | skinkie |     when I say a girl tried to fix her kobo
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|  | 22:05 | skinkie |     and her bf asked me, can you fix it...
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|  | 22:05 | Bertl_oO |     then that would sound like sexism ...
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|  | 22:05 | skinkie |     the amount of glue, solder... and probably tears were present :p
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|  | 22:06 | skinkie |     actually, when a girl actually attempts to fix this kind of things on her own
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|  | 22:06 | Bertl_oO |     okay, you know how to solder (i.e. the basics?)
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|  | 22:06 | skinkie |     that already gets some compliments from me, because at least that is an attempt
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|  | 22:06 | skinkie |     yes, i know how to solder ;)
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|  | 22:07 | skinkie |     i got basic flux, but not the liquid one
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|  | 22:07 | Bertl_oO |     good, can you carefully remove the solder from the pads on the PCB?
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|  | 22:07 | Bertl_oO |     with flux (tacky one is fine, I use it for almost everything)
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|  | 22:07 | Bertl_oO |     and some desoldering wick/braid
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|  | 22:08 | Bertl_oO |     keep the temperarute as low as possible
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|  | 22:08 | Bertl_oO |     and make a photo of the pads once they are cleaned up
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|  | 22:08 | Bertl_oO |     (you need to do that anyways)
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|  | 22:09 | skinkie |     the point is, that old connector is really one big mess
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|  | 22:09 | skinkie |     that is the reason i ordered some other ones
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|  | 22:09 | skinkie |     or would you suggest to recover that?
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|  | 22:09 | Bertl_oO |     yes, forget about the old one, but you have to find a new one which matches the land pattern
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|  | 22:09 | Bertl_oO |     and at the first glance, the one you pasted does not match :/
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|  | 22:15 | Bertl_oO |     https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8050/8442835400_f8f9e1c18d_b.jpg this is how the connector probably looked like before
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|  | 22:16 | Bertl_oO |     it is a kobo glo, no?
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|  | 22:17 | skinkie |     i wouldn't be surprised if it is a glo
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|  | 22:18 | skinkie |     but the board looks different
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|  | 22:18 | Bertl_oO |     the board is from the mini
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|  | 22:18 | Bertl_oO |     the best picture I found from the glo PCB is blurred like hell
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|  | 22:18 | Bertl_oO |     http://erkinson.altervista.org/de/kobo-glo-smontaggio-aumento-memoria/
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|  | 22:19 | Bertl_oO |     roughly in the middle of the page
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|  | 22:19 | skinkie |     http://stefan.konink.de/kobo-con.jpg
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|  | 22:20 | Bertl_oO |     okay, as I suspected
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|  | 22:21 | Bertl_oO |     the one you linked won't work with that
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|  | 22:21 | Bertl_oO |     what's on the other side of that board (where the connector is?
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|  | 22:23 | Bertl_oO |     https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/Micro-USB.pdf
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|  | 22:23 | Bertl_oO |     that one might work as a replacement
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|  | 22:27 | skinkie |     i get those replace usb things in two days
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|  | 22:27 | skinkie |     see if that fits or not
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|  | 22:27 | skinkie |     then search for other
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|  | 22:27 | Bertl_oO |     at least in the picture, they have pins going down into the PCB
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|  | 22:27 | skinkie |     doesn't work... lets see if i can make this glo the first qi-wireless charging one
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|  | 22:28 | skinkie |     http://stefan.konink.de/kobo-backside.jpg
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|  | 22:29 | Bertl_oO |     excellent
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|  | 22:30 | Bertl_oO |     as the other side doesn't have any problematic components on the edge of the PCB, I would suggest heating the PCB from the bottom (e.g. with a ceramic heating element or similar) to about 100-150 deg celsius
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|  | 22:30 | Bertl_oO |     this will simplify rework a lot and keep the pads on the PCB :)
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|  | 22:32 | skinkie |     will that really work?
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|  | 22:33 | skinkie |     will that melt solder on the other side?
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|  | 22:33 | Bertl_oO |     yes, it will work, it is all about the temperature difference, and no, it will be below the melting point for the solder
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|  | 22:34 | Bertl_oO |     the trick is to reduce the difference you have to overcome with the soldering iron
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|  | 22:34 | Bertl_oO |     if the PCB is at room temperature, you need to get the pads quite hot to reach the 200-220 deg celsius for the solder
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|  | 22:35 | Bertl_oO |     and the large thermal pads (those you did not get cleaned easily)
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|  | 22:35 | Bertl_oO |     will draw away heat very fast
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|  | 22:36 | Bertl_oO |     heating the PCB up to 130 deg celsius already gets you half the way and thus allows you to use lower temperatures for soldering without harming the PCB
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|  | 22:37 | skinkie |     I see your point
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|  | 22:37 | Bertl_oO |     that's why rework stations have bootom heaters :)
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|  | 23:15 | se6astian |     good night!
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